Learning from your mistakes... My first real cream!

Working on creating your own precious cosmetics has proven to be hard, not cause it requires anything incredibly complicated to find or the process is unavailable to the normal human being, but if anything, because there is so so so much to study and learn! This is probably, I have to confess, what makes it super interesting to me. So far I have spent much more time researching and trying to understand ingredientes and processes, than actually doing things. The result? Well, whatever I have done so far is actually usable!

Beautiful emulsion with no bubbles and incredible texture!

But two days ago I learnt something of incredible importance and this has revealed to be a game changer factor!

Apparently, I had to gelify the first phase! Well, "had to" in order to get what I wanted to get.... I have been using English and Italian sources and the last ones have proven to be more interesting since they go into the deep science behind combining ingredients. L'angolo de Lola is a forum overflowing with interesting information for those starting in this world, like me. I had used tips and recipes from Humblebee and Me, Marie has awesome recipes, makes lovely videos and a very useful Encyclopedia, she's super clear and helped me understand the basics, while now I am diving into a different kind of formulation, more precise and more oriented towards getting what I want!

When formulating a cream there are usually 3 phases. Phase A is the water based, Phase B is the oil based and Phase C is the "coold down phase" in which we add those little things that will make our cream special and any other ingredient that cannot be heated.

Because I had started working on a conditioner, I was convinced that Phase A was supposed to be incorporated in Phase B. Well, this was ok for BTMS but not for my hand cream! The oils should be added to the water phase and stop! FIRST MISTAKE! Learnt!

And, another very important thing I discovered, is that Phase A should always be gellified. This is the phase that will determine the texture of the cream and with just water we risk having the cream separated after just some time. A gel is more able to resist and support oil quantities and even in emulsion will be more stable. SECOND MISTAKE! Learnt!

Having finally understood these two super important factors I have been able to create my first real cream. What do I mean? Well, this cream has perfect consistency, when putting it on the skin it absorbs without leaving a white trace behind (which with my early formulations took a lot of massaging to absorb). But overall they look good, they feel good and they have made me happy!

*I do have to say that since I have only starting with all of this, I am "copying" recipes from other more experience formulators. Since I do not have all of the ingredients (there are so many!) I do subtitute things in the most conscious way (like oils.... I have learnt that you cannot substitute one for another just cause they look similar!). I want to think that my changes to this recipes make them my own, but.... doesn't matter for now, I am not planning to create my own shop or anything.... or am I?